Fixed-Blade Broadheads
Blades rigidly fixed to the ferrule - nothing to deploy, nothing to fail. Fixed heads trade a little forgiveness in flight for absolute mechanical reliability on impact.
The fixed-blade broadhead is archery's hammer: two, three or four blades locked rigid to the ferrule, sharp from quiver to hide, with no mechanism between you and penetration. It cannot fail to open because it is never closed - which is why traditional shooters, low-poundage setups and every 'when it absolutely must work' philosophy still land here. The cost: those exposed blades steer, so a fixed head tells the truth about your bow's tune whether you want to hear it or not.
What it is
A one-piece or replaceable-blade head with blades permanently exposed, in cut widths typically 1 to 1 1/4 inch, flying exactly as well as your arrow flies straight.
How it works
All energy goes to cutting from the instant of contact - no deployment, no lost momentum. Deep penetration per unit of energy is the fixed head's physics; complete pass-throughs are its calling card.
Strengths
Total reliability (nothing moves), best-in-class penetration on heavy bone and quartering angles, works at ANY draw weight (crossbows to trad bows to youth rigs), and blades you can strop shaving-sharp again.
Trade-offs
Exposed blades plane in wind and amplify tuning flaws - a poorly tuned bow groups fixed heads away from field points; wider cuts magnify it. Slightly narrower wound channels than big mechanicals.
Broadheads for Elk, Compared
Five heads to choose between for a large animal: three Iron Will fixed blades in different builds, a Muzzy fixed blade and, for contrast, a Rage mechanical. Each is described from its maker's product page, checked on 26 October 2026; we have not tested them, and there are no prices here: the Amazon link searches for the exact product, and we may earn a commission if you buy through it. Check your state's archery equipment rules before an elk hunt, and practise with the exact head you will hunt with.
| Broadhead | Type | Weights | What the maker states | Links |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Iron Will V Series | Fixed blade, vented | 100 to 200 gr (Deep Six versions too) | A2 tool steel blades; titanium ferrule on the lighter heads, 17-4 hardened stainless on the heavier ones, so momentum drives through instead of flexing | Maker's page · See on Amazon |
| Iron Will Single Bevel | Fixed blade, single bevel | 100 to 175 gr; right or left | Keeps the arrow rotating through impact for a bone-splitting effect; optional single-bevel bleeder; match the bevel to your fletching | Maker's page · See on Amazon |
| Iron Will Wide Series | Fixed blade, wide | 100 or 125 gr | 30% wider than Iron Will's other heads, 2 1/8 in total cut, accurate to 50 yards by the maker's tolerance claim | Maker's page · See on Amazon |
| Muzzy Trocar Ti | Fixed blade | 100 gr | Trocar tip, titanium ferrule, .039 in blades that flip for right or left helical fletching | Maker's page · See on Amazon |
| Rage Hypo 2 | Mechanical, 2 blades | 100 or 125 gr | 2 in cutting diameter, hybrid hypodermic tip, keyed shock collar, .035 in blades | Maker's page · See on Amazon |
Tuning & practice
Non-negotiable: broadhead-tune your bow (walk-back or paper tune until fixed heads and field points group together), then practice with THE actual heads you'll hunt (re-sharpened or fresh blades after). Spin-test every assembled arrow.
Mistakes with these heads
Hunting with heads you've never shot, assuming field-point zero transfers (it often doesn't), dull 'straight from the pack a year later' blades, and blaming the head for what is really a tuning or form problem.
Brand-free guidance, not product recommendations - we explain what matters so you can choose for yourself. Always verify your setup's flight with the actual hunting heads before the season, and follow your state's equipment regulations (minimum draw weights, broadhead rules and lighted-nock legality vary).
Arrow-building gear
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